Heresy Dragon Big Thread Of Doom

[Big Ned]

The finger on mine was only out by a few mm so I put pins in the finger, shoulder and the hips, then gave it a quick soak in near boiling water and gave the model a quick bend into shape.

In other news, I've used the spare tail Andy provided to test out a colour scheme:

 

I've used the flash so you can see the colour better.

[Big Boris]

Make a pin for the finger to hand and from tree stump to base, so that everything slides neatly into position, then you have to attach the arm to the main body and the main body to the legs all at the same time, I found. That way, nothing is massively out of position, it all lines up.

One of the perils of any multipart kit is that stuff that fits perfectly on the masters doesn't always on the castings. I had to leave the finger on the tree (I thought) as it wouldn't go around the tree if left on the hand due to the curve of the finger and thumb. For some reason it never really occurred to me to just make it a separate finger.

[Big Boris]

I'll see about sorting out a separate metal finger when I mould the head etc over my Christmas 'holidays'. You'll need to carve the old one away from the tree but that's not difficult. Don't do it until I've got the replacement done though!

[yxalitis]

In other news, I've used the spare tail Andy provided to test out a colour scheme:

 

I've used the flash so you can see the colour better.

Firstly, I think that such a large miniature would look a tad...drab, if it was ALL that colour..just my 2 cents.

secondly: SPARE tail??
There was two??
I only have a metal one...

[Big Boris]

The metal one replaces the end section of the resin one. The one-piece resin tail was dodgy at the end and in your case, Richard, you got the metal one  plus a resin section instead of a longer less well cast resin one. Future dragons will all have metal tail ends only, not resin tail ends.

[Big Boris]

I've said it before, and I'll say it again, btw, how Ian ever got that tail out in one piece at all is beyond the laws of physics, never mind casting.

[Big Ned]

Firstly, I think that such a large miniature would look a tad...drab, if it was ALL that colour..just my 2 cents.

secondly: SPARE tail??
There was two??
I only have a metal one...

I hear what you are saying. This colour will only be for the scales, the wing membranes, underbelly, claws and horns are going to be lighter to break up the green a bit. I'm going for very much a crocodillian feel.

[beefcake]

The finger on mine was only out by a few mm so I put pins in the finger, shoulder and the hips, then gave it a quick soak in near boiling water and gave the model a quick bend into shape.

In other news, I've used the spare tail Andy provided to test out a colour scheme:

 

I've used the flash so you can see the colour better.

I like the colour scheme. Very crocodillian

[ink the troll]

Still haven't gotten round to prep mine, so it's nice to see paint on at least a little bit of dragon. Looks suitably crocodily colourwise.

[leadhead]

Can you not heat it up using a hair dryer to bend things into alignment?  Just got a GK that is going to need some SERIOUS fidgety work (if I ever get to it).

[yxalitis]

This is my colour inspiration...

http://www.coolminiornot.com/269373?browseid=6951318

not the wings, though, just the green across the scales

[weareblind]

I know the Italian painter, one of my favourites. "Il nano nefasto" "The ominous dwarf". I have time to decide my palette, and I like this green...

[Toosh]

The finger on mine was only out by a few mm so I put pins in the finger, shoulder and the hips, then gave it a quick soak in near boiling water and gave the model a quick bend into shape.

In other news, I've used the spare tail Andy provided to test out a colour scheme:

 

I've used the flash so you can see the colour better.

I like the colour scheme. Very crocodillian

Might be my monitor, but it's looking like metallics to my eye    There needs to be some variation in colour; don't be afraid to use some reds etc otherwise, I too think it will look a bit 'samey'.  Nice start though 

[DRAGON]

I quite like it - difficult to tell what the overall effect on the whole beast would look like 

[RiTides Nids]

Make a pin for the finger to hand and from tree stump to base, so that everything slides neatly into position, then you have to attach the arm to the main body and the main body to the legs all at the same time, I found. That way, nothing is massively out of position, it all lines up.

One of the perils of any multipart kit is that stuff that fits perfectly on the masters doesn't always on the castings. I had to leave the finger on the tree (I thought) as it wouldn't go around the tree if left on the hand due to the curve of the finger and thumb. For some reason it never really occurred to me to just make it a separate finger.

This might already be done, but if not it could be worth having a set of instructions posted up on the web to direct people to for the order of assembly. Raging Heroes did this for their (obviously much smaller) manticore, as it also has a tree with a limb on it and lining things up is a bear if done in the wrong order!

Looking forward to seeing that paint scheme on the Dragon, Big Ned! I think it will be great for the look you're going for. Using the underbelly/wing membranes to break up the scheme in a lighter color sounds perfect. The base might also give you an opportunity to set off the colors.

Judging by your comparison pic, it seems you have a thing for large dragon models!

[Big Ned]

This might already be done, but if not it could be worth having a set of instructions posted up on the web to direct people to for the order of assembly. Raging Heroes did this for their (obviously much smaller) manticore, as it also has a tree with a limb on it and lining things up is a bear if done in the wrong order!

Looking forward to seeing that paint scheme on the Dragon, Big Ned! I think it will be great for the look you're going for. Using the underbelly/wing membranes to break up the scheme in a lighter color sounds perfect. The base might also give you an opportunity to set off the colors.

Judging by your comparison pic, it seems you have a thing for large dragon models!

There is, Andy's provided a set of instructions with the kit, which is really helpful and dusted with humour.

Thanks, I'm looking forward to seeing how this colour scheme turns out, I'm thinking it'll end up looking varied enough with thedetailing and highlights etc. I'm going to do a snow bases again to help the dragob stand out.

Yeah, I've got a thing for big dragons, 3 really big ones of which Andy is one

[Big Boris]

Just been messing about with the Dragon over the last few days at home - the main problem with assembly is that the long legs seem to warp during the casting process - demoulding, when the resin is still soft, means that the ankles flex - the left leg suffers from a slight rotation of the rock, and both legs seem to have minutely straightened out a little, which pushes the main body away from the tree trunk, causing the gaps Richard mentioned. it's rather unavoidable.

To easily fix it, you need a hairdryer with one of those diffuser/focusing nozzle attachments (I'm using a hairdryer that cost £5 from Asda) so that you can apply heat to a specific area without burning your fingers.

Best thing to do, is to glue the legs to the torso, then gently (well, not that gently) force them into the correct position on the rock, using your Crushing Grip action to get the left rock to slightly rotate and lie flat in place. (The Dragon's left, not your left) Once this is in place, use a hairdryer to heat the ankle enough that it becomes more bendy, you'll be able to tell as it will stop resisting your Crushing Grip. Remove the hot air and let it cool whilst still holding it. It will now be 'set' in the correct position. Glue it in place.

Now attach the tree trunk and the left arm (prepare pins for the finger to hand connection first) - you'll find that if you apply pressure to the back of the dragon, you can easily close the gap between the hand and the finger on the tree trunk. Again apply hot air to the legs whilst gently pushing the dragon into place as above.

This should solve any huge gap issues anybody has had. The extent of the problem will vary from casting to casting.

Currently altering the rock and tree trunk so that there is less need to mess about with hairdryers, but that will only apply to future Dragons, obviously, as it means new moulds etc and thus will only kick in when the current ones are replaced.

(Messing about with the Dragon after a year off makes me want to start again for the most part, using polymer clays instead of greenstuff, procreate, etc. I would do it differently now, that's for sure.)

(I am not starting it again, just to be clear)

[Vermis]

(I am not starting it again, just to be clear)

 

[Darsc Zacal]

Speaking as someone still looking forward to receiving their dragon, I'd like to express my appreciation in you taking the time and effort in "fine tuning" the future dragon castings. Much thanks in advance, especially knowing how much time you've already put into the dragon. 

[Twosoc]

(I am not starting it again, just to be clear)

Do a big one this time.

[Big Boris]

DON"T....TEMPT ME, FRODO!!!!

[DRAGON]

 

[Twosoc]

 

[yxalitis]

(Messing about with the Dragon after a year off makes me want to start again for the most part, using polymer clays instead of greenstuff, procreate, etc. I would do it differently now, that's for sure.)

Wait...you think having children would help?

[Avicenna]

Wait...you think having children would help?

Well you know what they say, "many hands make light work"