1
Fenris news / Sea Dragon monument
« on: May 12, 2013, 06:47:21 PM »
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2
Tutorials / painting (lasercut) brick buildings
« on: May 05, 2013, 10:33:37 AM »
Not the most interesting read by far, but as I stuck that on the blog earlier on, I figured I could just as well post the tutorial here as well. Might even prove useful to someone:
List of stuff used:
This is somewhat messy, so best to not add any details like wallpaper etc to the interior or paint the windows/ doors until afterwards.
Didn't prime the building prior to painting. I used a small 75ml sample pot of terracotta-ish coloured wall paint- there's still at least half a pot left, and the paint had already been used for other stuff.
Already have added mortar and some dirt to most of the first floor:
After the initial basecoat has had time to properly dry, I use somewhat thinned down black artists' acrylics and cover the walls.
The first layer is applied as a thick wash, quickly wipe off most of the paint with a paper towel- this will stain the building and run into the recesses.
Now take a big brush and paint on some more black, this doesn't have to be neat.
Mix a bit of the terracotta paint with white for a lighter tone. Heavily drybrush the whole thing:
Make a big ole mess of the whole thing:
Now take your base paint, drybrush that on, not quite as thick as the lighter tone but just as messy.
Time to use the pastel chalks. A black one in this case.
Rub the pastel chalk all over the wall, now use a big wet brush and paint the water onto the surface. this will dissolve the chalk/ pigments. No need to use as much water as I did- I just had to make sure it'll show in the pic:
Take a paper towel and wipe off the water- from top to bottom to create streaks:
Go make some tea or smoke a cigarette and let the poor mistreated building dry a bit.
Now apply varnish (I use brush on varnish, but probably this would work with spray varnish as well). Usually I'd use gloss varnish for this as it's a bit more resistant, but I've run out of that. So this is what it looks like once the matte varnish's been applied and dried:
More pastel chalks, this time black & white. Use a scalpel, cutter or similar to scrape over the chalks. Put the resulting cheapo pigment powder into a container.
Now grab an empty paintpot or similar and put some of the powder into that.
Add thinner & glaze medium, stir well, it'll take some time to mix this. Mortar:
Good idea to prepare some sooty dirt at this time as well- process is the same as above, just add some more colours:
Apply the mortar with a small brush, no need to be super tidy- as the building's been varnished you can just wipe off the mortar mix- preferably just after you've painted on too much:
It doesn't take half as long as you might think, so far the most time consuming step was basecoating the building. One wall, all mortared up and ready to go:
Unless you feel it's time to add some dirt. In that case, use a #2 brush and the sooty dirt mix from earlier on. Apply that to the top part of the wall, pulling the brush downwards to form streaks:
Apply some more, should that be required (the grey blue parts in the pic below are still wet):
Some muddy/ earthy dirt, created pretty much the same as the mortar & dirt mixes, just that this time I used a dark brown and some ochre and mixed it to a slightly thicker consistency and dabbed on in a random fashion.
After the first layer of dirt has dried you can apply some more:
Sprinkle some ochre over the still wet mixture and partly blend it in with the rest of the dirt:
List of stuff used:
- Lasercut mdf brick building by Sarissa.
- two big brushes, one small brush, one #2 sized brush
- a scalpel/ cutter
- terracotta-ish wallpaint
- black artists' acrylics (or just any other black paint)
- pastel chalks: black, white, blue, green, dark brown, ochre
- empty paint pots & containers
- paper towels
- water
- Vallejo thinner & glaze medium (These will dissolve/ thin the pastel chalk powder, so it flows better into recesses and is easier to feather & blend.It'll also hold it in place later on and seal it. All in one go.)
- varnish
This is somewhat messy, so best to not add any details like wallpaper etc to the interior or paint the windows/ doors until afterwards.
Didn't prime the building prior to painting. I used a small 75ml sample pot of terracotta-ish coloured wall paint- there's still at least half a pot left, and the paint had already been used for other stuff.
Already have added mortar and some dirt to most of the first floor:
After the initial basecoat has had time to properly dry, I use somewhat thinned down black artists' acrylics and cover the walls.
The first layer is applied as a thick wash, quickly wipe off most of the paint with a paper towel- this will stain the building and run into the recesses.
Now take a big brush and paint on some more black, this doesn't have to be neat.
Mix a bit of the terracotta paint with white for a lighter tone. Heavily drybrush the whole thing:
Make a big ole mess of the whole thing:
Now take your base paint, drybrush that on, not quite as thick as the lighter tone but just as messy.
Time to use the pastel chalks. A black one in this case.
Rub the pastel chalk all over the wall, now use a big wet brush and paint the water onto the surface. this will dissolve the chalk/ pigments. No need to use as much water as I did- I just had to make sure it'll show in the pic:
Take a paper towel and wipe off the water- from top to bottom to create streaks:
Go make some tea or smoke a cigarette and let the poor mistreated building dry a bit.
Now apply varnish (I use brush on varnish, but probably this would work with spray varnish as well). Usually I'd use gloss varnish for this as it's a bit more resistant, but I've run out of that. So this is what it looks like once the matte varnish's been applied and dried:
More pastel chalks, this time black & white. Use a scalpel, cutter or similar to scrape over the chalks. Put the resulting cheapo pigment powder into a container.
Now grab an empty paintpot or similar and put some of the powder into that.
Add thinner & glaze medium, stir well, it'll take some time to mix this. Mortar:
Good idea to prepare some sooty dirt at this time as well- process is the same as above, just add some more colours:
Apply the mortar with a small brush, no need to be super tidy- as the building's been varnished you can just wipe off the mortar mix- preferably just after you've painted on too much:
It doesn't take half as long as you might think, so far the most time consuming step was basecoating the building. One wall, all mortared up and ready to go:
Unless you feel it's time to add some dirt. In that case, use a #2 brush and the sooty dirt mix from earlier on. Apply that to the top part of the wall, pulling the brush downwards to form streaks:
Apply some more, should that be required (the grey blue parts in the pic below are still wet):
Some muddy/ earthy dirt, created pretty much the same as the mortar & dirt mixes, just that this time I used a dark brown and some ochre and mixed it to a slightly thicker consistency and dabbed on in a random fashion.
After the first layer of dirt has dried you can apply some more:
Sprinkle some ochre over the still wet mixture and partly blend it in with the rest of the dirt:
3
Pack chatter / Building blanks
« on: April 06, 2013, 01:14:15 PM »
Been thinking a bit about laser cut buildings, mainly cause I was painting some from Sarissa yesterday. They're ok, the bricks are a bit too big for my taste, but using them as building blanks would be quite expensive imo, as most other laser cut stuff.
This made me think some generic building blanks (either ply or plastic card) might be a good addition to your range.
Just the basic shapes with some 'holes' for doors & windows cut out, but no other detailing like brickwork etc, to keep them relatively cheap. Also seperate floor & wall sets for adding more floors later on. Possibly two different roof options- flat & gabled with inserts for the pointy/ angled wall bit (made so that the dormer windows fit).
People could use them as quick scenery or use them as starting point for creating their own buildings by adding carved foam, embossed plastic card, windows and other detailing parts etc.
You already sell some detailing bits like roof tiles, fences, the dormer windows, those cornice thingies, so if you'd add some doors & windows that'd fit in/ on the building blanks you'd have quite a nice selection there.
Might complement the proper building kit(s) in your range nicely.
This made me think some generic building blanks (either ply or plastic card) might be a good addition to your range.
Just the basic shapes with some 'holes' for doors & windows cut out, but no other detailing like brickwork etc, to keep them relatively cheap. Also seperate floor & wall sets for adding more floors later on. Possibly two different roof options- flat & gabled with inserts for the pointy/ angled wall bit (made so that the dormer windows fit).
People could use them as quick scenery or use them as starting point for creating their own buildings by adding carved foam, embossed plastic card, windows and other detailing parts etc.
You already sell some detailing bits like roof tiles, fences, the dormer windows, those cornice thingies, so if you'd add some doors & windows that'd fit in/ on the building blanks you'd have quite a nice selection there.
Might complement the proper building kit(s) in your range nicely.
4
Fenris news / squidheaded mutant
« on: February 02, 2013, 09:13:35 AM »
Link to submit a name for the guy.
Nice one, though I'm now hearing a little voice in my head singing 'Hey, hey Bo Squiddley' alternating with 'squiddley diddley daddy' (probably only makes sense if you ever listened to Bo Diddley).
Hope it's ok I posted the pic here btw.
5
Pack chatter / Cthulhu pillar thingies?
« on: January 25, 2013, 06:26:38 PM »
These:
What's the price tag on them? Apologies if they're already in the shop and I managed to miss them.
Also as I don't have a facebook account may I suggest naming the little dino Herb (as in Herbert and herbivore)?
What's the price tag on them? Apologies if they're already in the shop and I managed to miss them.
Also as I don't have a facebook account may I suggest naming the little dino Herb (as in Herbert and herbivore)?
6
The Colouring-in Room / Dungeon tiles
« on: January 25, 2013, 02:49:14 PM »
Many many moons ago (2008 or so) I started some dungeon tiles intended to be printed out and glued to something like cardboard/ plastic card/ mdf and posted some preview pics in the playtesting the Netherhells topic. Recently I found the stuff on my pc (hadn't gotten around to doing much with them all those years) and decided to update them a bit. No idea if anyone's interested in tiles like that, but over time I'll just post the silly things in here as they're still wip.
Some foresty ones as starter:
Some foresty ones as starter:
7
Tutorials / Painting big monster eyes & yucky skin
« on: January 18, 2013, 06:18:15 PM »
Figured I should post this in the tutorials section as well, makes it easier to find than only hiding this in a wip thread:
Painting eyes on shoggies:
Did take me a while and several attempts to figure out something I thought looks convincing enough. Plus I cheated, as with most eyes I left out the white 'light reflection'.
Block in the eye with a slightly yellowish white.
Add a black dot of appropriate size where you want to place the iris + pupil.
Thin all your paints well, as you'll most likely have to go over parts several times (unless of course unlike me your one of those super tidy people who manage to get everything right at first attempt).
Decide on what colour you want the iris to be and place it in a roughly circular shape around the black dot.
Curse your shaky hands + shortsightedness and move on to the next step.
Mix in some paint, so you end up with a somewhat darker colour than before. Draw lines starting from the outside diameter of the iris to the pupil/ black dot, a bit like an asterix *, only with more lines. Try to make sure the lines get thinner/ finer towards the center.
Curse your shaky hands + shortsightedness and ...
Take a blob of your iris base colour, lighten it with white or whatever colour seems appropriate. Draw lines from the pupil to the outside of iris. This time make sure the lines ain't all that straight/ are a bit wavey.
Curse your ...
Clean up the outer edge of the iris with your base colour. Swear some more as you'll inevitably will paint over some of the painstakingly painted lines from above. Clean up the mess.
Take a bit of the inital base colour, lighten it a tad and thin it well. Glaze over the eye to make the contrast a little less harsh.
Redot the black pupil. And clean up the edge of the iris with the yellowish white from the start.
For the bloodshot look either use something like a micron pen or a brush with a good tip/fine point (or combine both, first the micron pen than draw over that with your brush, the micron pen is a bit to felt tip pen red for my taste but makes placing the meandering veins easier). Add some slightly wavey lines.
Optionally add some more yellow and just a hint of red to your yellowish white, thin it and glaze over parts of the eye close to the eye socket and around the veins.
For the blind eyes I glazed the whole eye over with some light greyish blue paint, but left out most of the wavey lines stuff.
General tips- think of painting the eyes as a bit like painting various minis wearing the same uniform:
- block in all the eyes at first, then dot in the pupil on all those eyes
- do all the eyes of the same colour in one go
- don't paint too many eyes in one go, it's kinda hard to focus on them lines after a while
____________________________________________________________________________
quick description on how I painted the skin on this guy as it's basically the same way I paint/ painted shoggies, added the parts that are a bit different for the shoggies in italics:
painting yucky skin on shoggies and other monsters:
I do prime everything with brush on primer. In this case I mixed in some flesh coloured paint and a bit of white with grey primer (Vallejo surface primer) as base, for the shoggies I left out the white though as that would have made the base colour a bit too light. Should work the same if you spray prime and then give the whole thing a wash with a suitably sickly looking flesh tone.
I did give the Fenris shoggy a light drybrush with my primer/ base colour mix but added a bit more light grey. As it's a fairly big mini that's less time consuming than carefully highlighting everything.
Then I roughly highlighted (lightish flesh colour) and shaded the whole thing (Ogryn flesh).
Added a very thin wash of badab black on top to make it look less bright. At this stage the Fenris shoggy only did get some highlights painted on the upper part of its body, as I already had drybrushed him.
Some parts were then painted over with various other paints (everything from purple to yellow), blended with roughly the same colour I used for the first highlights.
Here and there I stippled on some differently coloured paint to give the skin a slightly mottled look (didn't do that on the shoggy, as there's less flat surfaces) and and added some thinned down paints like a wash to the creases/ parts where I thought the shadows should be stronger.
Repeat the whole thing several times until happy with the overall effect and add a really thin wash of greyish flesh paint over the whole thing.
On the Tengu shoggy I added some veins with blueish purple paint using a brush with a fine tip. I also used several green washes to make the little one look even more disgusting, mainly on the lower parts around some of the puss filled blisters/ boils.
For the puss I usually start with a dark yellow as a basecolour, then add more and more white for every layer (depending on the size of the boil I use two to four layers). Each additional layer covers less of the boils.
I then sometimes will add a wash around the boils, sometimes even over them boils. Green on the Tengu shoggy and a very thin red wash on the Fenris shoggy.
The short version:
Prime + basecoat the whole thing in a greyish flesh colour, highlight/ dry brush with a lighter version of the base colour.
Add a wash for the initial shading, add various washes and glazes (mostly blueish purple, yellow, green and a medium red).
Add a really thin wash of greyish flesh paint over the whole thing.
Painting eyes on shoggies:
Did take me a while and several attempts to figure out something I thought looks convincing enough. Plus I cheated, as with most eyes I left out the white 'light reflection'.
Block in the eye with a slightly yellowish white.
Add a black dot of appropriate size where you want to place the iris + pupil.
Thin all your paints well, as you'll most likely have to go over parts several times (unless of course unlike me your one of those super tidy people who manage to get everything right at first attempt).
Decide on what colour you want the iris to be and place it in a roughly circular shape around the black dot.
Curse your shaky hands + shortsightedness and move on to the next step.
Mix in some paint, so you end up with a somewhat darker colour than before. Draw lines starting from the outside diameter of the iris to the pupil/ black dot, a bit like an asterix *, only with more lines. Try to make sure the lines get thinner/ finer towards the center.
Curse your shaky hands + shortsightedness and ...
Take a blob of your iris base colour, lighten it with white or whatever colour seems appropriate. Draw lines from the pupil to the outside of iris. This time make sure the lines ain't all that straight/ are a bit wavey.
Curse your ...
Clean up the outer edge of the iris with your base colour. Swear some more as you'll inevitably will paint over some of the painstakingly painted lines from above. Clean up the mess.
Take a bit of the inital base colour, lighten it a tad and thin it well. Glaze over the eye to make the contrast a little less harsh.
Redot the black pupil. And clean up the edge of the iris with the yellowish white from the start.
For the bloodshot look either use something like a micron pen or a brush with a good tip/fine point (or combine both, first the micron pen than draw over that with your brush, the micron pen is a bit to felt tip pen red for my taste but makes placing the meandering veins easier). Add some slightly wavey lines.
Optionally add some more yellow and just a hint of red to your yellowish white, thin it and glaze over parts of the eye close to the eye socket and around the veins.
For the blind eyes I glazed the whole eye over with some light greyish blue paint, but left out most of the wavey lines stuff.
General tips- think of painting the eyes as a bit like painting various minis wearing the same uniform:
- block in all the eyes at first, then dot in the pupil on all those eyes
- do all the eyes of the same colour in one go
- don't paint too many eyes in one go, it's kinda hard to focus on them lines after a while
____________________________________________________________________________
quick description on how I painted the skin on this guy as it's basically the same way I paint/ painted shoggies, added the parts that are a bit different for the shoggies in italics:
painting yucky skin on shoggies and other monsters:
I do prime everything with brush on primer. In this case I mixed in some flesh coloured paint and a bit of white with grey primer (Vallejo surface primer) as base, for the shoggies I left out the white though as that would have made the base colour a bit too light. Should work the same if you spray prime and then give the whole thing a wash with a suitably sickly looking flesh tone.
I did give the Fenris shoggy a light drybrush with my primer/ base colour mix but added a bit more light grey. As it's a fairly big mini that's less time consuming than carefully highlighting everything.
Then I roughly highlighted (lightish flesh colour) and shaded the whole thing (Ogryn flesh).
Added a very thin wash of badab black on top to make it look less bright. At this stage the Fenris shoggy only did get some highlights painted on the upper part of its body, as I already had drybrushed him.
Some parts were then painted over with various other paints (everything from purple to yellow), blended with roughly the same colour I used for the first highlights.
Here and there I stippled on some differently coloured paint to give the skin a slightly mottled look (didn't do that on the shoggy, as there's less flat surfaces) and and added some thinned down paints like a wash to the creases/ parts where I thought the shadows should be stronger.
Repeat the whole thing several times until happy with the overall effect and add a really thin wash of greyish flesh paint over the whole thing.
On the Tengu shoggy I added some veins with blueish purple paint using a brush with a fine tip. I also used several green washes to make the little one look even more disgusting, mainly on the lower parts around some of the puss filled blisters/ boils.
For the puss I usually start with a dark yellow as a basecolour, then add more and more white for every layer (depending on the size of the boil I use two to four layers). Each additional layer covers less of the boils.
I then sometimes will add a wash around the boils, sometimes even over them boils. Green on the Tengu shoggy and a very thin red wash on the Fenris shoggy.
The short version:
Prime + basecoat the whole thing in a greyish flesh colour, highlight/ dry brush with a lighter version of the base colour.
Add a wash for the initial shading, add various washes and glazes (mostly blueish purple, yellow, green and a medium red).
Add a really thin wash of greyish flesh paint over the whole thing.
8
The Colouring-in Room / Fenris shoggy + Studio Miniatures & nude(ish) Tengu zombies
« on: January 14, 2013, 01:34:41 PM »
Figured I'd better add a little warning to the topic title as some people may not be overthrilled upon being presented pics what contain zombie cock...
9
2MI / Wood shingles
« on: February 03, 2012, 12:26:07 AM »
Probably sounds fairly boring, but I've been wondering how usefull (and profitable) packs containing strips of wood shingles would be. For tiled roofs there's embossed styrene and such but I haven't found nearly as many roof shingle options (and most of them were single shingles cut from wood).
More and more mdf/ hdf buildings out there, but most do lack details- there's definitely a market for laser engraved/ cut scenery, so they may serve as aftermarket parts there. More importantly they'd be handy for scratchbuilding stuff as well- and most likely would look nicer than cardboard shingles. Strips would be more time saving during assembly than single shingles but it still would be easy enough to add damage.
Basically I was thinking of something like this (leave some room on the upper edge to glue the next strip onto, the lower edge would be cut to shape accordingly, engrave the groves/ spaces between shingles):
_______________________ _______________________ _______________________
[][ ][][ ][][][ ][][ ][][ ][][] UUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV
Hm, probably should draw a sketch of that tomorrow.
More and more mdf/ hdf buildings out there, but most do lack details- there's definitely a market for laser engraved/ cut scenery, so they may serve as aftermarket parts there. More importantly they'd be handy for scratchbuilding stuff as well- and most likely would look nicer than cardboard shingles. Strips would be more time saving during assembly than single shingles but it still would be easy enough to add damage.
Basically I was thinking of something like this (leave some room on the upper edge to glue the next strip onto, the lower edge would be cut to shape accordingly, engrave the groves/ spaces between shingles):
_______________________ _______________________ _______________________
[][ ][][ ][][][ ][][ ][][ ][][] UUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV
Hm, probably should draw a sketch of that tomorrow.
10
General Ranting / your worst decision regarding paintjobs/ colour schemes?
« on: July 27, 2011, 09:55:25 PM »
the one i regret most must be this - i hate painting eyes, i don't know what made me think it'd be a good idea... and i'm not even close to finishing painting that damn shoggy anytime soon!
so what turned out to be your worst decision when it comes to painting minis?
so what turned out to be your worst decision when it comes to painting minis?
11
General Ranting / Database Error?
« on: June 24, 2011, 03:43:13 PM »
Database Error: MySQL server has gone away
File: /home/forumof/public_html/Sources/Subs.php
Line: 631
anyone else getting that error message, while browsing the fod? keeps happening since a few days and after a few seconds everything's back to normal
also while trying to post, this:
Internal Server Error
The server encountered an internal error or misconfiguration and was unable to complete your request.
Please contact the server administrator, webmaster@forum-of-doom.com and inform them of the time the error occurred, and anything you might have done that may have caused the error.
More information about this error may be available in the server error log.
Additionally, a 404 Not Found error was encountered while trying to use an ErrorDocument to handle the request.
File: /home/forumof/public_html/Sources/Subs.php
Line: 631
anyone else getting that error message, while browsing the fod? keeps happening since a few days and after a few seconds everything's back to normal
also while trying to post, this:
Internal Server Error
The server encountered an internal error or misconfiguration and was unable to complete your request.
Please contact the server administrator, webmaster@forum-of-doom.com and inform them of the time the error occurred, and anything you might have done that may have caused the error.
More information about this error may be available in the server error log.
Additionally, a 404 Not Found error was encountered while trying to use an ErrorDocument to handle the request.
12
Suggestions (HF) / Kindred civilians/ workers?
« on: January 27, 2009, 03:58:15 PM »
Any chance of some civilians?
Quick sketch to explain what I'm suggesting:
link in case the pic doesn't show: http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/6379/kindq0.jpg
(Blame Frothers & the ECW.)
Quick sketch to explain what I'm suggesting:
link in case the pic doesn't show: http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/6379/kindq0.jpg
(Blame Frothers & the ECW.)
13
Hasslefree Babble / site down?
« on: January 14, 2009, 12:35:15 AM »
Been trying since a while now (~1 hour) to access the site, but:
"Network Timeout. The server at www.hasslefreeminiatures.co.uk is taking too long to respond" (unless nothing loads at all and the location/ url bar changes the address to about:blank.
"Network Timeout. The server at www.hasslefreeminiatures.co.uk is taking too long to respond" (unless nothing loads at all and the location/ url bar changes the address to about:blank.
14
General Ranting / tub full of tanks- need some ideas
« on: October 02, 2008, 10:27:27 AM »
I went to the recycling containers to get rid of the silly amounts of plastic waste and old paper that accumulated over the week. When I opened the one for plastic, there's a plastic tank sitting on top of a pile of garbage. A bit of rummaging through the waste and some more turn up:
There's some parts missing here and there, the paintjobs aren't great, the tracks are rubber and some are battery powered toys but overall this looks like a good basis for some conversions.
So what should I do with them (besides obviously cleaning them)? My first thought was they might look interesting after being orkyfied. Any other ideas?
There's some parts missing here and there, the paintjobs aren't great, the tracks are rubber and some are battery powered toys but overall this looks like a good basis for some conversions.
So what should I do with them (besides obviously cleaning them)? My first thought was they might look interesting after being orkyfied. Any other ideas?
15
General Ranting / paypal not allowing a payment to be made?
« on: September 22, 2008, 09:58:54 PM »
Since about 40 minutes I'm trying to make a payment of £11,50 via paypal (to Hasslefree) .
Usually that's not a problem. I just click the 'pay now' (or whatever it says in the english version) button in the email, log into my paypal account and confirm the payment. Payment made. A few days later paypal has automatically withdrawn the money from my bank account and that's that.
But now paypal keeps insisting I either have to pay via credit card (impossible, since I simply don't own one) or have to first put some money in my paypal account (which would take 3 to 5 days, according to paypal), telling me it's impossible to make the payment any other way.
Anybody ever had something like that happen, it's a bit confusing for me not being able to pay the same unproblematic and fast way as usual.
Usually that's not a problem. I just click the 'pay now' (or whatever it says in the english version) button in the email, log into my paypal account and confirm the payment. Payment made. A few days later paypal has automatically withdrawn the money from my bank account and that's that.
But now paypal keeps insisting I either have to pay via credit card (impossible, since I simply don't own one) or have to first put some money in my paypal account (which would take 3 to 5 days, according to paypal), telling me it's impossible to make the payment any other way.
Anybody ever had something like that happen, it's a bit confusing for me not being able to pay the same unproblematic and fast way as usual.
16
Suggestions (HF) / gladiators
« on: August 14, 2008, 12:05:14 PM »
This topic proves there just aren't enough good looking gladiator miniatures available, especially the female gladiators department is lacking.
So some Hasslefree ones would be nice, they could team up with Artemis for units of ancient fighter women as well...
So some Hasslefree ones would be nice, they could team up with Artemis for units of ancient fighter women as well...
17
General Ranting / nocturnal visitors with leathery wings
« on: August 12, 2008, 02:39:32 AM »
Bats. You'd think they'd know better than to fly through a tilted window right into my room and keep me from sleeping...
Had one in here last year and wouldn't have thought another one would fly through the window, eventually fighting its way through the curtain. I was wrong. But at least this one wasn't as camera shy (sadly I didn't manage to take a pic of the little one flying around my room):
Cute little bugger.
Batwings flapping against windowglass make a strange, quite distinctive sound btw. Did you ever ask yourself what you'd feel like when saying: "Look I opened the window for you, why don't you just fly out" to a bat? You feel a bit silly.
Had one in here last year and wouldn't have thought another one would fly through the window, eventually fighting its way through the curtain. I was wrong. But at least this one wasn't as camera shy (sadly I didn't manage to take a pic of the little one flying around my room):
Cute little bugger.
Batwings flapping against windowglass make a strange, quite distinctive sound btw. Did you ever ask yourself what you'd feel like when saying: "Look I opened the window for you, why don't you just fly out" to a bat? You feel a bit silly.
18
Custom dice would be quite an investment, especially if you don't know when/ if you'd sell enough to recover the costs.
But maybe there could be something like a preorder option, and once enough people preordered some dice you could then have the dice produced? That way you wouldn't need to worry about having to spend tons of money on something that might not sell as well as hoped.
Can't remember if the same dice are used for Deathball & Netherhells, but if that's the case you'd have some more 'hardware' for both games
But maybe there could be something like a preorder option, and once enough people preordered some dice you could then have the dice produced? That way you wouldn't need to worry about having to spend tons of money on something that might not sell as well as hoped.
Can't remember if the same dice are used for Deathball & Netherhells, but if that's the case you'd have some more 'hardware' for both games
19
The Colouring-in Room / putty leftovers
« on: July 11, 2008, 12:55:27 PM »
What the title says. Being a bit curious I'd like to know: What do you do with those bits and blobs of putty you didn't use for filling gaps/ sculpting?
Mine usually end up as ugly slightly organic looking blobs, huge books or even less usefull things:
(I really have to spend some time figuring out how to properly use my newish camera for taking decent pics)
Mine usually end up as ugly slightly organic looking blobs, huge books or even less usefull things:
(I really have to spend some time figuring out how to properly use my newish camera for taking decent pics)
20
Suggestions (HF) / a mongolian/ oriental(ish) looking dwarf or three
« on: June 26, 2008, 10:42:03 PM »
I'd like to see some remotely Mongolian/ oriental dwarfs (probably I'm the only one, but I'll suggest them anyways). They'd make good enemies for the other dwarfs, could be used as additional Harem guards/mercenaries and would add a bit of variation to the hordes of mostly European dwarfs out there.
I guess two or three different poses/ weapons would be good. One more static/ standing guard, one attacking and one with a bow (admittedly mounted archers would be fun too but )
Not exactly a great piece of art, but it seemed easier than trying to describe what I mean or google for pics of something close to it:
I guess two or three different poses/ weapons would be good. One more static/ standing guard, one attacking and one with a bow (admittedly mounted archers would be fun too but )
Not exactly a great piece of art, but it seemed easier than trying to describe what I mean or google for pics of something close to it:
21
Suggestions. (BS) / whalers/ harpooners
« on: June 26, 2008, 04:49:48 PM »
Some whalers/ harpooners (spelling?) 'armed' with everything from shoulder guns to the various types of knives used for cutting whales into small(ish) bits might be a nice addition to your range of naval themed minis.
Good for pulp games (and dioramas). I bet with some modification you could convert them into smugglers, too. So you could add a range of coastal brigands as well...
Good for pulp games (and dioramas). I bet with some modification you could convert them into smugglers, too. So you could add a range of coastal brigands as well...
22
The Colouring-in Room / tiny DoD wip
« on: September 03, 2007, 12:02:15 PM »
Only figs/ parts from two companies, no idea if i get it finished in time but anyways:
To give you an idea what's gonna happen with the wings (they're just tacked on, so position will still slightly change):
.:edit:.
Wings are almost done (lousy pic, I just used an Osram dot it led thingy instead of proper lamps):
To give you an idea what's gonna happen with the wings (they're just tacked on, so position will still slightly change):
.:edit:.
Wings are almost done (lousy pic, I just used an Osram dot it led thingy instead of proper lamps):
This led thingy actually might be usefull for people that want to paint some lighting effects:
click
click
23
General Ranting / slow day
« on: August 22, 2007, 03:25:37 PM »
Has anyone else had problems with really long loading times and getting 'couldn't connect' error messeges when accessing the fod? Had that happen several times today
24
The Colouring-in Room / slightly silly conversion project
« on: August 10, 2007, 02:30:24 PM »
I forgot to take a pic what it looked like with the wings still attached (they will be attached again, only a bit further to the front). Anyways, some day in the (probably far and distant) future I want this thing to be sort of a beast for some of the goblins I have. Not sure if it will really end up as a warbeast or more of an armoured beast of burden.
I plan on adding some armour and a saddle for the beasthandler. Then I'll have to decide if it's gonna be a warbeast with a proper howdah on back or if it's gonna carry lots of goods for a merchant and I'll use the goblins as guards.
I'm also considering adding spikes/ horns. If you've got some other suggestions (or links to good pics of howdahs) please let me know.
25
Ideas for New Heresy Models / Deathball conversions
« on: November 14, 2006, 10:53:39 AM »
While starting on a Troll conversion (obligatory pic below) I was thinking how the pose could be used for a Deathball version.
Most of the people here would probably agree that it'd be great to have more DB miniatures and how quite a few could be converted from allready existing minis.
The logical conclusion was this: Why not have a friendly conversion competition? Those that play DB convert minis anyways, for others it could be a nice distraction from their current projects and for Andy it might be a good opportunity to expand the DB range a bit.
the cause for this suggestion:
(not much done so far)
Most of the people here would probably agree that it'd be great to have more DB miniatures and how quite a few could be converted from allready existing minis.
The logical conclusion was this: Why not have a friendly conversion competition? Those that play DB convert minis anyways, for others it could be a nice distraction from their current projects and for Andy it might be a good opportunity to expand the DB range a bit.
the cause for this suggestion:
(not much done so far)
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